Top 5 Houses to Visit in Pompeii
Whatever you do, don't miss these on your next trip to the ancient city!
A visit to Pompeii will forever live in your heart. Walking over the city’s uneven cobbles, whether for the first or thirtieth time, and imagining the tapestry of people who walked before you, you get a buzz that is hard to find elsewhere. I think it is the phenomenal preservation of the space. The history isn’t manufactured, it is there, raw, under your feet, beneath your hands, and it hits you right between the eyes.
And because there is just so much to see when you’re there, it’s hard to know where to begin, or what to prioritise. Whenever I am asked, I give people this list that I am now giving to you as I feel like it not only gives you a cross section of Pompeian society, but also contains some absolute bangers on the Pompeii highlight list (namely wall frescoes). We’ve got the wealthiest houses in the city, beautiful gardens, an estate owned by a female business owner, tiny apartments, and everything in between.
This is only part one, with many more lists of houses and details about them to come next week, when I’ll be writing from the city itself! See the bottom of this article for what I’ll be covering.
1. House of the Vettii (VI.15.1)
The House of the Vettii is a masterpiece of contradiction: a place where stunning beauty meets the unvarnished truths of life in ancient Pompeii. Its opulent walls whisper stories of ambition and luxury, while behind them the raw realities of Roman culture are tucked away.
The house, recently reopened to the public after a 20-year restoration, is thought to have been owned by two brothers, Aulus Vettius Conviva, an Augustulis, and Aulus Vettius Restitutus, who were former slaves turned wealthy freedmen. Their rise from servitude to prosperity is reflected in every inch of their home, from the riotous frescoes of mythological scenes to the crude and sometimes shocking imagery of everyday Roman life. The brothers weren’t just showing off their wealth; they were making a big “we’ve made it” statement.
As you step into the atrium, light streams through the compluvium, a square opening in the ceiling, complete with decorative lion water spouts, which illuminates the marble impluvium below, once used to catch and store rainwater. The fountain statue of Priapus greets you with a crude yet striking depiction of fertility and abundance, weighing his oversized phallus against a bag of coins. It’s a bold choice, but it encapsulates the Vettii brothers’ desire to celebrate prosperity in all its forms—fertility, trade, and sheer wealth. The strongbox or money safe, likely kept nearby to the brothers at the morning meeting (salutatio) when clients would ask for favours and loans, is now on display in the atrium.
The house itself is an artistic treasure trove, where frescoes vibrantly depict mythological stories. In one room, Pentheus is torn apart by frenzied Maenads, a cautionary tale of defying the gods. In another, the loves of Zeus unfold in vivid detail. Each image isn’t just decoration; it’s a window into the values and beliefs of Roman society, where power, passion, and divine retribution shaped the moral landscape.
But the House of the Vettii isn’t all grand mythology. The peristyle garden area, surrounded by a colonnade, offers a softer, serene space. Statues, fountains, and greenery create a luxurious oasis where the brothers likely entertained guests or sought refuge from the hot Italian sun. Imagine the chatter of a party of guests here as wine flowed freely and the aroma of roasted meats filled the air. These gatherings, like the house itself, were meticulously curated to project an image of sophistication and success.
Erotic art adorns the walls of some rooms, offering an unfiltered glimpse into Pompeian attitudes toward sex and power dynamics. These images, bold and unapologetic, remind visitors that the Roman world was both shockingly open and deeply hierarchical. The brothers’ journey from enslavement to affluence is etched into its walls, a testament to both the opportunities and inequalities of ancient Rome.
Why visit? Recently restored, this house is one of the most famous in Pompeii for its lavish frescoes, including risqué mythological scenes. It offers a stunning example of elite luxury and Roman artistic taste.
What to spot: The Priapus fresco in the entrance (he’s hard to miss!) and the intricate wall paintings in the rooms surrounding the atrium.
2. Villa of the Mysteries (Outside the city walls)
The Villa of the Mysteries sits just beyond Pompeii’s city walls, a place where daily life, artistic ambition, and ancient religion intertwine. This sprawling villa was not only a residence but a working estate, where its owners produced wine while surrounded by breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples. Today, the villa is best known for its enigmatic frescoes, one of the most celebrated and debated artworks of the ancient world.
Take a walk through the beautiful villa and make sure to take your time appreciating the frescoes along the way. There are so many wonderful details to note; a hint to Egypt here, a garden scene there, a frolicking satyr on a wall. One of the rooms, quite a small one on your left as you walk through a corridor, is especially breathtaking and, dare I say it, just as impressive as the Mysteries room. I see many tourists speeding through the villa to get to the ‘main event’, but your senses will thank you for taking your time.
Follow the trail to the end and you’ll find yourself in the Room of the Mysteries, where a series of life-sized frescoes unfold along the walls like a stage play. Painted in deep Pompeian red, they depict a sequence of figures engaged in what is widely believed to be an initiation into the mysteries of Dionysus, the god of wine and ecstasy. A veiled woman, possibly a young bride, appears in the midst of a ritual. This has led other historians to believe that this is actually a marriage scene with elements of Dionysiac ritual included (rather than the other way around). Either way, this is clearly a sacred scene, and because the rituals of the Dionysiac cult were kept secret, we can’t be entirely certain as to what is going on here (I’ll do a run down of the key theories on here one day for my paid subscribers). Elsewhere, a priestess prepares for the ceremony, a frenzied dancer whirls with abandon, and a figure flinches as she is ritually whipped, perhaps a symbolic test of endurance before enlightenment.
Like many wealthy estates in the region, this villa also had an agricultural function. A large torcularium (wine press) reveals that the villa’s land was used to cultivate grapes and produce wine, an industry vital to Pompeii’s economy. The villa’s private bath complex, another mark of affluence, allowed its owners to enjoy a secluded, indulgent lifestyle away from the crowded city. Keep an eye out for the plaster casts of shutters in the house, and the mosaic floors.
Why visit? Known for its enigmatic frescoes depicting the initiation rites of a Dionysian cult, this villa offers a rare glimpse into religion and private, elite life.
What to spot: The Room of the Mysteries frescoes, particularly the reclining figure of Dionysus and the veiled bride in the initiation scene. A guide to what you are looking at it set out in front of the fresco.
Remember: You will need more than the basic Pompeii ticket to access the villa, so make sure you take this into account when booking/buying at the ticket office. The MyPompeii card covers the villa. Check with the staff if you aren’t sure.
3. House of the Ship Europa (I.15.3)
Pompeii’s economy was deeply tied to trade, and few houses capture this better than the House of the Ship Europa, one of my all time favourite properties in the city, and one I have spend literally months and years studying. Located in one of the city’s more commercial districts, which I refer to as the ‘green district’, this property was converted from a domus, likely after the earthquake of AD 62, into a commercial garden property and workshop. The house was rearranged to serve as the industrial area for processing goods grown on site, with many amphorae found in the peristyle, and properties behind the house were demolished to make way for a large garden. In the garden, vines, fruit and nut trees, and two large vegetable plots were growing. The bones of animals, including sheep and a cow, were found in the garden too, nearby to the indoor ‘shed’ like room at the rear of the garden which may have been used as a kind of stable.
The standout feature of the house, which gives it its modern name, is the large etching of a big cargo ship on the wall of the peristyle. The ship, named Europa, is depicted with its sails unfurled. It is likely to have been a ship that the workers were familiar with, or else a fictional one they conjured up on a particularly slow working day. Whichever it was, it is an incredibly detailed piece of graffiti which supports the mercantile nature of the property.
Today you can take a walk through the property and get a feel for properties which had been converted from domestic into commercial in the final years of the city. After looking inside, take a walk out into the garden and admire the vineyard now growing here. Notice the way that it is terraced - this was done after AD 62 by the Romans to improve the space for growing vines. It’s an incredibly peaceful place and a beautiful site, especially when the vines are at their prime in the summer. The Romans would have harvested these in the autumn and taken the grapes elsewhere to be processed into wine (no processing materials or terracotta jars for fermenting the wine were found on site, as they have been in other vineyards), or sold them as table grapes. After talking a walk down the garden paths, exit out of the small ‘stable’ building by the trees in the bottom left-hand corner.
Why visit? A fantastic snapshot of commercial garden life in the city which will truly change your opinion of Pompeii from a sea of grey walls to a vibrant, green city with many different commercial opportunities.
What to spot: The fresco of the ship Europa, showcasing a merchant’s lifestyle and Pompeii’s vital role in Mediterranean trade, and the beautiful, large garden.
4. House of the Venus in the Shell (II.3.3)
If there’s one image that defines this house, it’s the stunning fresco of Venus reclining on a shell, surrounded by cherubic cupids. And it is truly breathtaking. The goddess of love appears as if emerging from the sea, an homage to both her divine power and the coastal beauty of the Bay of Naples. This masterpiece, set against a vivid blue background, is one of the finest depictions of Venus in Pompeii. It is also, you will note, a very common theme in art, Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus (1485-86) being one good, and strikingly similar, example.
The house itself, located in Regio II, Insula 3, is modest compared to elite homes like the House of the Vettii, but its carefully curated space shows that its owner had an eye for beauty and symbolism. The architectural layout suggests it was designed with comfort and aesthetics in mind, featuring a spacious peristyle garden that must have been a tranquil retreat in AD 79. Painted garden scenes, a common decorative feature in Pompeii, enhance the illusion of being surrounded by lush greenery even in the surrounding enclosed rooms.
The strong presence of Venus in the peristyle garden does not come as a surprise. The goddess was one of Pompeii’s most venerated deities, being the city’s patron deity, and her imagery was often linked to ideas of prosperity, protection, and good fortune, as well as gardens. The city itself was home to a major Temple of Venus, reinforcing the importance of her worship in domestic settings. The presence of Venus in this house may have had both religious and personal significance for the owner, who might have sought divine favour through her imagery.
The house’s position within the city (near to the Amphitheatre and other luxurious houses, such as the House of Octavius Quartio and the Estate of Julia Felix) suggests that its owner, though not among the ultra-wealthy, was financially comfortable. It may have belonged to a successful merchant or even a local politician who wanted to display cultural refinement without the ostentatious grandeur of Pompeii’s largest estates. The rooms, though not particularly large, were elegantly decorated, reflecting a balance between sophistication and practicality.
Why visit? A house dedicated to Venus, with vibrant frescoes of the goddess on a shell, symbolising love and beauty. The garden adds to its charm.
What to spot: The stunning fresco of Venus in the Shell, a masterpiece of Pompeian art.
5. Estate of Julia Felix (II.4.3)
The Estate of Julia Felix was no ordinary home. This estate, extending over a whole block (insula) was a self-contained luxury complex containing a mix of a private rooms to rent, dining rooms, sacred spaces, shops, elaborate luxury gardens (and a practical walled one), as well as a bathing complex. The estate, or praedia, belonged to Julia Felix, an independent, wealthy businesswoman who turned her property into a profitable enterprise after the earthquake of AD 62.
The layout of the estate suggests that it catered to a variety of guests. The public bath section included heated rooms, a plunge pool, and elegant mosaic floors, offering an alternative to the crowded city baths for the city’s more distinguished bathers. In fact, this is a term Julia uses herself in an advertisement for their use found on the north facade of the estate. It read:
In praediis Iuliae Sp. f. Felicis locantur balneum Venerium et nongentum tabernae pergulae cenacula ex Idibus Aug. primis in Aug. sextas annos continuos quinque.
This translates to:
"To let, in the estate of Julia Felix, daughter of Spurius: elegant baths for respectable people, shops with upper rooms, and apartments. From the 13th of August next, to the 13th of August of the sixth year, for five continuous years."
The final line of the inscription is highly abbreviated, making its exact meaning uncertain. However, the main content clearly indicates that Julia Felix was offering various facilities for rent. This advertisement highlights Julia Felix's entrepreneurial spirit and her efforts to cater to Pompeii's more distinguished citizens by providing upscale amenities. The name Spurius in the inscription is intriguing. By the 1st century AD, Spurius had fallen out of common use as a personal name, suggesting her father may have come from a non-elite or old-fashioned background. Some scholars also speculate that Julia Felix’s family had freedman origins, as the gens Julia was a common name adopted by former slaves manumitted by powerful households.
You can take a walk through the estate today. I’d recommend starting in the gardens from the open area outside the amphitheatre, as these are beautifully planted in the present day and provide a welcome shady respite from the hot sun. Follow the path until you reach the walls of the inner estate, which lead you into the inner peristyle garden with its euripus, a long water display designed to emulate the Nile.
Take in the Egyptian-themed triclinium which used to have water cascading down the back and the entrance to the bathing complex. Exit onto the street with the House of the Venus in the Shell.
Why visit? A sprawling estate that functioned as both a private residence and a rental property, with baths, shops, and gardens. It gives an incredibly rare look into the lives of entrepreneurial women in Roman society.
What to spot: The garden space and Egyptian frescoes in the triclinium.
Loved this Top 5? This is just the beginning!
Next week, I’ll be covering five more incredible Pompeian houses (and writing from the city itself!), featuring one of the city’s oldest and wealthiest homes, my favourite garden frescoes, a sprawling villa with its own slave quarters, an Egyptian-inspired water garden, and one of the most breathtaking hunting scenes ever preserved in ancient art.
These exclusive deep dives will be available only to paid subscribers, so if you want the full experience, subscribe now and don’t miss out!
Thank you,
Wonderful homes captured in time. 🌋