The Expert's Guide to Visiting Pompeii
Written by an historian with a PhD in Pompeian archaeology (who has been there - A LOT)
The first thing people always say to me when they have visited Pompeii is: “It’s so big! You’d need a week to get around it all.” I couldn’t agree more. Visiting Pompeii can certainly be overwhelming, particularly for first timers.
I’ve been studying the city for over a decade and there is still so much to explore in detail, and new things emerging out of the ash all the time. It’s an incredibly exciting time to be visiting the city and so much of it now open to visitors. While the houses themselves can open and close at the site’s whim (usually to give them a break from visitors or when they haven’t got enough attendants), there is always more than enough to visit.
But I’m here to warn you, also - I’ve heard some stories over the years, from people getting ripped off on tickets and tour guides (online and even outside the gates), to sunburn and dehydration, underestimating the size of the site, or even just major hunger (there are cafes, but I’ll get to why you need to plan).
And here is why you need to plan ahead. The remains of Pompeii's city walls are 2 miles (3 km) in circumference, and they enclose an area of about 163 acres (66 hectares). Usually you’ve only got one day, or one morning/afternoon, and you want to make the most of it. I would advise you to think of this like you would a day out in Rome or a trip to Disneyland - dress practically and be prepared to walk and stand A LOT! Having said that, Pompeii have made huge strides in making the site accessible to everyone, and are increasing the areas that are accessible to people with disabilities all the time. I have included their accessible map (Pompeii for All) at the bottom of this article.
As there is such a lot to know before visiting, and it can all be a bit confusing online, I wanted to put together my own personal guide, taken from years of visits in all weathers and at all times of year.
It contains my top tips on things like beating the weather and getting lunch, to preventing yourself getting ripped off, finding the right (best value) ticket, travelling between sites (this one is a bit of a secret), and what to wear. I’ve also included two downloadable maps (including one for people with disabilities) so that you can plan ahead!
I’m going to follow this article with my guide to the top ten spots to visit in Pompeii (available to everyone) and exclusive house-by-house content, with photographs and learning guides, for my paid subscribers. If you’d like to join my ancient history cult, sign up here.
Contents
Tickets
Opening times
Getting there
Shuttle Bus
What to wear and what to pack
Shade, lunch, lockers, loos and gift/book shops
Other things to note (from someone who has learned from experience)
Pompeii maps (to download)
Tickets
Always, always, buy your ticket directly from the official Pompeii website. Otherwise you will end up paying over and above the entry fee for nothing on top.
The website is pompeiisites.org.
I would always recommend booking ahead, either online or on the phone (online is best), to avoid the long queues and ensure you can get in for the day/avoid disappointment.
It’s really important to note that as of very recently (November 2024), there is now:
A daily limit of 20,000 visitors;
Time slots for the site of Pompeii during the summer months, the period with the highest number of visitors - from 1 April to 31 October - which will enable:
From 9.00 am to 12.00 pm, a maximum of 15,000 admissions (subdivided into 12,000 for Pompeii express and 3,000 for Pompei +)
From 12.00 pm to 5.30 pm, a maximum of 5,000 admissions (subdivided into 3,000 for Pompeii express and 2,000 for Pompei +)
Nominative tickets. Nominative tickets with the holder’s name will be introduced for all types of ticket (Pompei express, Pompei +, Pompei 3days and for individual sites), both online and at ticket offices upon display of ID/passport by the visitor.
But don’t worry - as long as you book ahead, you should be fine.
Ticket prices
Ticket prices may change so you’re best off visiting the website directly here.
You can also buy tickets at each of the Porta Marina and Piazza Anfiteatro entrances.
For a basic ticket, you’re looking at € 18.00 (for just the site, not the villas on site), up to € 26.00 (for the site and all of the suburban villas and extra sites off-site for 3 days). (Correct at time of publishing in January 2025).
My top tip: Ignore the people trying to get you to buy tickets outside of the site. I had one woman aggressively shouting at me “You’re going the wrong way! That is not the entrance!”, when of course I knew it was the right (and only) way to the entrance, which I told her. She was trying to sell me a ticket with a massive premium. So yes, ignore them.
This map provides a guide of what each ticket price will get you.
My TOP TIP for tickets: Invest in the MyPompeii Pass!
If you’re planning on visiting more than once in a year, I would recommend investing in the MyPompeii pass. This is an annual ticket which for € 35.00 (or € 8.00 reduced) gets you:
Unlimited entry into the Pompeii Archaeological site in one year
Unlimited entry to all the park’s sites: Pompeii, the Villa of Poppaea at Oplontis, the Antiquarium of Boscoreale and Villa Regina, the Stabian Villas, and the Libero D’Orsi Archaeological Museum at the Royal Palace of Quisisana.
Use of the Shuttle Bus between sites (see below)
Exclusive benefits, including early updates on news and activities
Access to temporary exhibitions and certain events
The chance to share your ideas and suggestions
An invitation to an annual meeting with the Park Director to hear about ongoing and future projects.
MyPompeii Pass Price:
€ 35.00 - full price
€ 8.00 - reduced (under-25s and EU citizens)
Plus a €1.50 online booking fee
The card can be purchased online at www.ticketone.it and collected at the Pompeii ticket offices (Porta Marina, Piazza Esedra, or Piazza Anfiteatro).
It is such incredible value, especially with the shuttle included. I of course have a MyPompeii pass, seeing as I go so often, and I think it’s brilliant for what you get. It also gets you into the Villa dei Misteri, which you would otherwise need a higher value regular ticket for.
Make sure that you take a valid ID with you when you go to pick the card up at either the Porta Marina, Piazza Esedra or Piazza Anfiteatro entrances. It’s non-transferable (i.e. it’ll have your name on it, so you can’t give it to someone else) and is valid for one year from the date of issue.
You can find more details on the MyPompeii pass here.
Opening times
Opening times change throughout the year based on the season (they don’t want you walking around in the dark, for example) so do check this before you go to plan your day.
Correct as of January 2025.
Getting to Pompeii
By train
The Circumvesuviana train is the most popular and convenient option for reaching Pompeii. Here’s how it works:
From Naples: Head to Napoli Garibaldi station (inside Napoli Centrale). Take the Circumvesuviana line heading to Sorrento and get off at Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri station. The journey takes about 35 minutes, and trains run every 20-30 minutes.
From Sorrento: Hop on the Circumvesuviana line heading toward Naples and get off at Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri. It’s about a 30-minute ride.
Both options leave you just a short walk from the main entrance to the archaeological site (Porta Marina). Tickets are inexpensive, typically costing around €3.20 one way.
Tips:
It’s a local train, so don’t expect luxury. But it is reliable and affordable.
Avoid peak times if possible, as trains can get crowded, especially in summer.
Watch your bags and pockets at all times! The Circumvesuviana is a hotbed for pick-pocketing.
You might need to queue for quite some time to get a ticket - they’re not usually in a rush!
By car
Directions:
From Naples, take the A3 motorway toward Salerno. Exit at Pompei Ovest for Porta Marina or Pompei Est for the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance.
From the Amalfi Coast, follow the coastal road and connect to the A3 at Castellammare di Stabia.
Parking:
Pompei Scavi Parking (near Porta Marina): Large car park, just a 5-minute walk from the main entrance. Rates are around €2-€3 per hour.
Piazza Anfiteatro Parking: Another reliable option closer to the amphitheatre entrance.
Via Plinio Parking: Offers convenience, with restaurants and shops nearby.
Many car parks also offer shuttle services to the entrance.
By bus
I’d recommend using the Circumvesuviana where you can, though.
SITA Buses: Operate from cities like Sorrento, Amalfi, and Positano. The stop for Pompeii is Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri.
From Naples, there are also private tour buses and regional buses departing from Piazza Garibaldi or Porta Nolana.
Camping
If you’re vanning it, there are plenty of camping sites.
Camping Sites
Camping Spartacus (Via Plinio, 127): Just a 5-minute walk to Porta Marina. Offers camper van spaces, tent pitches, and bungalows. Facilities include a pool, restaurant, and Wi-Fi.
Camping Zeus (Via Villa dei Misteri, 3): Located right next to the Circumvesuviana station, this site is ideal for budget travelers. Includes shaded pitches, bathrooms, and a small shop.
Camping Fortuna Village Pompei (Via Sant’Abbondio, 165): A peaceful campsite with good facilities and lovely views of Mount Vesuvius. A short drive from the archaeological park.
From the airports
Naples Capodichino Airport:
By Public Transport: Take the Alibus shuttle to Naples Centrale, then transfer to the Circumvesuviana line to Pompeii.
By Car: Follow the A3 motorway toward Salerno and exit at Pompei Ovest or Pompei Est.
Rome Airports (Fiumicino or Ciampino):
By Train: Take a high-speed train from Roma Termini to Napoli Centrale (about 70 minutes), then transfer to the Circumvesuviana train.
Shuttle
This is a fabulous (free!) way to get between the main Pompeii sites! It makes exploring these incredible locations easy, especially if you don’t have a car.
The shuttle is called the Artebus and this is what it looks like:
Stops along the route
The shuttle links several key sites, including:
Pompeii: The main archaeological park (Pompei Scavi).
Boscoreale: The Antiquarium and Villa Regina.
Torre Annunziata: The Villa of Poppaea at Oplontis.
Stabiae: The Stabian Villas.
You’ll only need your ticket (including these sites) to get on board. The MyPompeii pass allows you to use the shuttle also.
Timetable
The Pompeii Artebus runs daily and is timed to make it easy to hop between sites. You can check the official updated timetable directly at the ticket offices or online at the official Pompeii sites website.
Where to find the shuttle
Pompei Piazza Esedra
Villa dei Misteri (Porta Ercolano)
This stop is only for the transfer to Boscoreale. It is not possible to enter the Villa of the Mysteries via the road – entrance to the Villa is only possible via the Pompeii+ route within the site.
Boscoreale
Stazione Via Nocera (circumvesuviana)
San Marco
Arianna
Reggia di Quisisana
NB: The shuttle is equipped with storage for large luggage but is not equipped with disabled access. Traffic also affects the timetable so bear this in mind.
What to wear and what to pack
Exploring Pompeii is an unforgettable experience, but with its vast ruins, uneven terrain, and unpredictable weather, dressing and packing appropriately will ensure a comfortable and enjoyable visit. Here's your guide:
What to Wear
Comfortable shoes
The ancient streets of Pompeii are uneven, with cobblestones and steep curbs. You'll also walk a lot.
I’d recommend: Sturdy trainers, walking shoes, or hiking sandals. Avoid flip-flops or heels. Ankle support (i.e. on walking boots) and chunky soles are life savers!
Lightweight, Breathable Clothing
Summers in Pompeii can be absolutely scorching, and there’s very little shade (see my tips on this below).
I’d recommend: Loose-fitting clothes made from breathable fabrics like cotton or linen. In cooler months, opt for layers.
Sun Protection
The ruins are exposed, with minimal tree cover and not very many roofs. You’re going to be out in the sun a lot.
I’d recommend:
A wide-brimmed hat or cap
Sunglasses with good UV protection
An umbrella for portable shade
Lightweight, long-sleeved shirts to protect from sunburn if you're sensitive
Lots and lots of sunscreen and lipbalm with SPF
A portable rechargable fan is a godsend on the hottest days
Seasonal Outerwear
The seasons can be fairly predictable in Italy but I have been caught out from time to time. I always take an umbrella
Spring/Autumn: A light jacket or sweater for cooler mornings.
Winter: A warm coat, as it can get chilly and windy.
Rainy Days: A waterproof jacket or poncho and a compact umbrella.
What to Pack
Essentials
Reusable water bottle: Stay hydrated! There are fountains inside Pompeii to refill your bottle. Otherwise there are cafes to buy water and soft drinks.
Snacks: Pack light, non-perishable snacks (again, heat). There are limited options inside.
Map/guidebook: Helpful for navigating the massive site. You can also download maps or apps beforehand or pick paper copies up at the ticket offices.
Tickets: If purchased online, have it ready on your phone.
Cash/card: For entrance fees, parking, or refreshments.
Bag: One that you can wear on the front or that won’t brush against or damage things inside the site (I wouldn’t recommend backpacks and if you do wear one, make it a small one).
Secure baggage: Watch out for pick pockets! Especially outside of the site.
Extras I would recommend
Mosquito spray: I always wear this in Italy
Portable phone charger: This has saved me many a time in the site because I take so many photos/videos!
Camera
Blister Plasters: A lifesaver if your shoes start to rub.
Painkillers: For headaches or muscle aches after all that walking.
Tissues or Wet Wipes: For personal use, as restrooms may not always have supplies.
What not to bring
Large backpacks: These may not be allowed inside certain areas as you could cause damage to the site. I’ve had many stressful moments watching people’s backpacks rubbing against 2,000 year old frescoes. Don’t be that person.
Unnecessary valuables: Keep it simple to avoid loss or theft.
Heavy cameras/tripods: Unless you're a professional photographer, your phone camera will suffice.
My (extra) top tips
Check the weather forecast before your visit and adjust accordingly.
Start early in the day to avoid crowds and midday heat.
Travel light to make walking around easier.
Shade, lunch, lockers, loos and gift/book shops
Before you go, I’d highly recommend planning your route before setting off. This way you can plan visits to areas with shade for a break, your lunch pit-stop, and have an idea of where fountains and toilets (loos - I’m British, if you hadn’t worked it out yet) are.
Shade
This is very hard to come by in Pompeii. It’s one of the things that surprises people the most. I always wear a hat in the summer, it’s just too hot not too and the sun is strong. I’d also recommend starting first thing or after the heat of the day if you’re doing a half day trip, otherwise plan accordingly for pit stops. But here are my tips to find shade in Pompeii…
Areas for shade:
Garden of the Fugitives (or most gardens you can get into are now planted with trees!)
The Large Palaestra
In the shadow of the Large Amphitheatre
Inside houses - but you can’t sit down!
Colonnades, porticos and quiet side streets: find a stone to sit on in the shade around the Forum or down side streets
The Antiquarium museum: This is air conditioned! And of course contains lots of amazing things, other than just being blissfully cool. To access the Antiquarium, I recommend entering via the Piazza Esedra entrance which is included in the entrance ticket.
As you can see, this is a limited list… So plan accordingly.
Lunch
A very important consideration, of course. There are two cafes on site.
Cafe by the forum:
Find it just north of the forum
Smaller than the other one but has indoors seating and toilets
Hot and cold food served, alongside drinks
Casina dell’Aquila Cafe:
Near the new excavations in Region IX
This one is much newer than the other one and perfect for the warmer months
Hot and cold food served, alongside drinks
Outdoor seating and toilets
My top tip: I like to buy a sandwich (panino) before I go in or at one of the cafes inside the site and pop it in my bag. That way, if I’m on the other side of town from the cafe when I get hungry, I can just stop and eat on a street in the shade!
The water is fine to drink from the fountains so take a refillable bottle.
Lockers for luggage
I tested these out last time I was there so you wouldn’t have to.
They have lockers at the Porta Marina entrance. They are not attended but work by a touchscreen. You choose the size of locker you want and it gives you a unique code before automatically opening the locker. Keep this slip of paper safe! I like to take a picture of it just in case I lose it.
The lockers fit small wheeled carry-on suitcases and bags. You can apparently also leave luggage with the office around the corner (though I haven’t tried this).
Toilets (loos)
There aren’t that many toilets considering the size of the site, so keep this in mind when visiting. They’re all clearly marked out on the maps (download below).
Gift and book shops
This is of course very important! There are gift shops at the Porta Marina and Antifeatro entrances, as well as a book shop in the Antiquarium.
Tour guides
Be careful who you book! Guided tours can be requested at the entrances to the site of Pompeii at Piazza Esedra and Porta Marina between 9.00 am and 3.00 pm. Through its concessionary, the Archaeological Park is exclusively responsible for dealing with requests for guided tours.
The service is provided by qualified freelance guides who can be recognised by their badges, so do check this first. The prices, routes and durations of visits are agreed directly with the guides. Do note that I have heard several tour guides in my time giving less than truthful information, so just be aware of this when booking. This doesn’t mean they’re all like this, but it has happened quite a few times that I’ve overheard (utter) nonsense.
Other things to note (from someone who has learned from experience)
I said it up there but ignore the people trying to get you to buy tickets outside of the site. I had one woman aggressively shouting at me “You’re going the wrong way! That is not the entrance!”, when of course I knew it was the right (and only) way to the entrance, which I told her. She was trying to sell me a ticket with a massive premium. So yes, ignore them.
Small pets are allowed (hurrah!) provided they are on a leash (and well behaved).
There are stray dogs and cats around the site, all of which are very friendly and are fed by the site. They keep themselves to themselves.
There are routes for disabled individuals as part of the Pompeii for All initiative (download the map below).
Your ankles will likely hurt by the end of the day as the floor is so uneven.
Many (in fact almost all) of the roofs you see are not original - they’re there to protect the ancient properties (and provide some well needed shade!)
The water is fine to drink!
Have the absolute best time! Soak it all up. Even though it might be tricky to picture some things, try to take a moment every now and again to remember that Pompeians walked and stood in the same spot as you 2,000 years ago. You will never forget a feeling like it.
Maps
Many years ago, an archaeologist named Giuseppe Fiorelli divided the town into nine regions, each with up to roughly 22 blocks, or insulae, and the streets were given honorary Italian names to make navigating the city easier.
This is where we get addresses like I.15.1-3 from (this is the House of the Ship Europa, my personal favourite commercial garden property where a vineyard, orchard, and vegetable plots were being grown in the back garden).
The maps are marked with the regions and insulae (blocks) to make navigating a little easier. In my other guides, I will always give you the full address so that you can find the properties easily yourself.
Main site map
Pompeii for All site map (for individuals with disabilities)
I did purchase the MyPompeii pass but the website says nothing about how to receive it except that you have to “choose” to pick it up “at the venue,” so thanks for that awesome tip! I feel like sitting in the shade at the amphitheater or on a side street would really be a very “ancient Pompeiian” experience 😆
I hope you are still monitoring this post because we are planning to attend Pompeii next month and also looking to purchase the MyPompeii pass but are very confused on if we need to book entry times to not be impacted by the 20,000 person limit. So as MyPompeii Pass holders, do we also need to book out times to enter? And do our children who would be entering free with us also need to book tickets?